An article in the August-September 2003 issue of Nexus magazine introduced the world to Lee Crock’s Aura Therapy/Energy Cleaner Machine. The Energy Cleaner aka The Energy Stimulator aka The Crock Device aka The Box of Batteries (BOB) was said to have been used successfully in the treatment of cancer, Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s disease, muscular dystrophy, arthritis and rheumatism.
Lee Crock’s device used 5 pairs of D cell flashlight batteries. Each pair of batteries was connected in series, positive to negative. Then the pairs of batteries were connected in parallel to each other.
A wire coming out of the device was attached to a wire mesh screen like you would find in your windows. The screen was hooked up to the positive side of the batteries for 15 minutes. Then the negative side was hooked up to the screen for 15 minutes. Crock used some sort of timer to alternate which polarity was attached to the screen. Some people who made their own devices and didn’t have a timer would manually switch the wires. At no time were both terminals of the batteries connected to the screen at the same time so there was never a complete electrical circuit.
My fundamental understanding of electricity tells me this device shouldn’t do a darn thing and yet there were claims it did a lot. Just calling it a “Fountain of Youth” is quite a claim.
A person would lie down on the screen or sit very close to it. A treatment could last for hours. Some people put the screen under their mattresses and slept with the device working. Some of those people got too energized by it and had to turn it off to go to sleep. Many people feel very little or nothing while the treatment is going on. But some people feel it very well.
Crock said his device was inspired by reiki and was his way of attempting to create a reiki-ish treatment mechanically. As with reiki, some people don’t feel a thing when they get a treatment and some people feel a lot. With reiki and the Crock device, a common feeling is a sensation of warmth. The most important feeling though was the feeling of physical improvement after treatment.
(At this point, you might be wondering if this post has anything to do with EFT or the Law of Attraction like every other post on this website. It does not. Even though this post talks about switching polarities on batteries, it has nothing to do with the earlier post on polarity reversals. Other than the fact that we are dealing with subtle healing energy, this post doesn’t really belong on this website but I didn’t want to create a new website just for this one post.)
In Crock’s day, a genuine Crock device from Lee himself cost $3000. That’s an awful lot of money for a “Box of Batteries” but he offered a money back guarantee to anyone who didn’t get better with it. He has said nobody ever asked for a refund. He used the money to run a clinic in Caldwell, Ohio where he claimed to have treated thousands of satisfied people using this type of device.
After Crock died, Jerry Decker, who authored the Nexus article about Crock and the Crock Device, produced a knock-off device called the Mexistim. He charged a much more reasonable $250 for it. After he died, production of the Mexistim died as well. But my interest in it did not. I would come back to the idea of a Crock device every so often wondering how to build one. I even looked on ebay for a used one to no avail.
This device seemed like it should have been an easy DIY job. Calling it a “Box of Batteries” wasn’t really too much of a simplification. But that damn timer relay really stymied me. While I’ve seen circuit diagrams to make a Crock device/BOB, my lack of skills in electronics prevented me from ever making one. With my limited knowledge, the diagrams were useless to me and nobody I knew was knowledgeable about electronics to help me. I was stuck.
But a few weeks ago I got motivated and got busy on Google and YouTube trying to teach myself enough electronics to build a BOB. While I never learned enough to make use of the circuit diagrams, I think I found the right information that taught me what I needed to know to make a Box of Batteries/Crock device without needing to read circuit diagrams. So without further ado..
How to Build a Crock Device aka Energy Cleaner aka BOB
This is the way I make a Crock device. It may not be perfect but it seems to be pretty close to a genuine Crock device in performance.
List of Materials
5 Battery Holders that hold 2 D cell batteries
1 XY-LJ02 relay timer.
10 D cells (flashlight batteries) because you can’t build a Box of Batteries without batteries
1 box or container because you can’t have a Box of Batteries without a box.
1 Micro USB cord
You will also need some solder, a soldering iron, a tiny screwdriver, wire, electrical tape and a wire stripper/cutter. I had some 16 gauge speaker wire lying around and that’s what I used.
When I mention connecting wires in the following instructions, I don’t bother telling you to strip the insulation off the ends before soldering or connecting them. I want to assume you know that but if you are really new to this sort of thing, I figured I better mention it.
I used five battery holders like the one pictured here. I got them off ebay for about 10 dollars for all five. In theory I should have been able to just connect the five black wires and the five red wires coming out of them and I’d have my battery connections all taken care of. But I tested each battery holder and found four of them did not work. So I had to solder wire to the positive and negative connections in the four non-functioning battery holders.
To not be wasteful, I snipped the wires off that were attached to the battery holders and soldered those directly to the battery holders but I would have been better off using longer wires. My next build will use different battery holders.
Before I connected the wires to each other, I needed to get the container/box ready for the device. I found a Rubbermaid container that was big enough to hold everything and only cost a few bucks. I cut a piece of corrugated cardboard that fit on the bottom of it. And I used some strong double-sided tape to attach the battery holders to the cardboard.
Then I connected all the positive wires to each other.
Then I connected all the negative wires to each other.
Don’t put in the batteries yet.
The wire that comes with the battery holders is a rather thin gauge. One reviewer on Amazon said the wire was too thin even for the 3 volts the batteries would put it. Luckily with a Crock device, an electrical circuit is never made so these thin wires will suffice. When you connect the 5 sets of 3 volts battery pairs in parallel, you have the potential to a powerful enough current to be capable of melting those thin wires pretty quickly and starting a fire. So once you have the batteries installed…
DON’T EVER LET THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE WIRES TOUCH.
You have been warned.
Once I had the positive wires and negative wires from the battery holders connected properly, I attached another wire to each side so each wire was long enough to reach wherever the timer would be.
At this point, now that you are sure the positive and negative wires won’t touch, you can install the batteries before it gets too crowded in the box. Since no actual circuit is made with these batteries, they should last two to three years before they need replacing. They will decay before they are used up.
According to Lee Crock, only carbon-zinc batteries will do. Others have found that alkaline batteries work well, too. Others have not had good luck with rechargeable D cells. And your batteries must be D cells according to Crock. He says you can’t make a lightweight version by using C, AA or AAA cells even though they are also 1.5 volts.
Some people have experimented using a 6 volt lantern battery instead of the D cells. The results are mixed. Some users say that battery is great. Some users say it’s too strong. The problem is testing this device is purely subjective. Since no current is generated, I think it’s impossible to objectively measure whatever field the screen is emitting. If it is possible, I have yet to see any articles explaining how they made their measurements.
And you won’t get good results if you try to replace the batteries with power from an AC adapter plugged into the wall.
The timer was always a sticking point for me (and others) making their own BOBs so finding this XY-LJ02 relay timer (Not an affiliate link) on Amazon was a game changer.
This timer needs its own power source. It does not run off the batteries in the device. The easiest way to power the timer is to use its micro USB port. When you connect a USB cord to it, you can power the timer off a wall charger or your computer.
You will need to program the timer. And you will want to do it before it’s connected to anything but a power source. Programming is rather complicated to explain so I linked to a YouTube video of someone explaining how to use and program this timer.
The timer has different programs controlling how it functions. You will want to use Program 6 which doesn’t require a button or trigger to start the timer. It starts as soon as you connect it to a power source.
When you program the CL setting, you are telling the timer how long the switch should be closed. In other words, how long the positive wire will be connected to the screen.
When you program the OP setting, you are telling the timer how long the switch should be open. In other words, how long the negative wire will be connected to the screen.
In a standard Crock device, the positive and negative wires alternated at 15 minute intervals. Some experimenters have found shorter intervals (like a minute or so) to be more effective. With this XY-LJ02 relay timer, you can use whatever intervals you want. I’m not even sure the positive and negative connection times have to be the same. Do some experiments and let me know what you find works best for you.
The LP setting is for setting the Loop. You decide how many times you want the switch to go back and forth between being open and closed. If you set it to three dashes (- – -) it will loop continuously. That’s where you want it.
After I programed the timer but before I connected the wires to it, I needed a place to mount it in the box. I used a piece of cardboard that spanned the width of the box. I attached the timer to the cardboard using little plastic thingies (for lack of the proper word) that came with the timer. These thingies fit in the holes in the corners of the timer and stay there. I used two of them. I stuck the thingies through the cardboard and into the timer’s circuit board and that timer isn’t going anywhere without the cardboard.
I made a couple more holes in the cardboard so I could thread the USB cable through them so that if anybody accidentally tripped over the USB cable, they wouldn’t pull the cable out of the timer. I think a lot about people tripping because I have tripped over my wires a few times since I built my BOB.
If I had to do it over again, I’d make that loop in the box itself. It would provide more protection.
When I put my BOB together, I put a hole in the side of the container and stuck a small bolt through it. I attached the negative wire to it then ran another wire from the bolt to the timer. Then I tightened a nut with a washer on to the bolt to keep the wires in place. This helped keep the negative and positive wires away from each other. Even though I used electrician’s tape around the wires to insulate them, you can’t be too cautious. I also have an idea for future experiments that will use this ground bolt.
I poked a second hole in the container for a bolt to connect the wire going to the screen. A short wire goes from the middle terminal of the timer to this bolt. On the outside of the container I attached a short wire to the bolt before I tightened a nut on the wire on the inside to keep everything in place That short wire will connect with the wire going to the wire screen. I use a wire with alligator clips at each end. One clip goes on the wire coming out of the box. The other clip attaches to the screen. The little hook you see on the top of the original Energy Cleaner at the top of the pages serves the same purpose as the little wire a little more elegantly.
Now connect the positive wire to the NC terminal, the negative wire to the NO terminal and and the screen wire to the middle terminal.
Once I got the timer properly connected, I put the cardboard with the timer in the box and taped it to the sides to secure it.
You can now put the lid on the box.
At this point you have a working Crock Device/BOB. All you need is a screen.
You can use aluminum screen that you use for windows available at any hardware store. My device uses the bottom of a disposable aluminum lasagna pan. Anything apparently works as a screen as long as it can conduct electricity but you want something big enough to generate a decent field around your body. So don’t use a soda can or a gum wrapper.
Some people have used a BOB in their cars. They run the timer off the power from the cigarette lighter. One of the advantages of this version of the BOB is that you can use a USB car charger as your power source. Instead of attaching the alligator clip to a screen, you can attach it to a ground somewhere in the car. That could be any part of the chassis that is bare metal. Doing that is said to make the entire car into an energy cleaner and everyone in the car gets a treatment while traveling.
This post represents my take on the Crock Device. All the basics of the original seem to be there even if the packaging is a little less than polished.
This was a pretty easy and more importantly cheap device to make. The timer is about $11. The batteries are another $10. The battery holders were another $10. I found a USB cable with a wall charger for about $5 at an outlet store. The box was about $4. Everything else I already had at home. So total cost was about $40.
If I build one again, it shouldn’t take more than a couple hours. And if I find working battery holders that don’t require me to solder anything I could reduce the construction time to about an hour or so.
I make no claims as to the efficacy of this BOB/Crock device. The Crock device has obviously not been approved by the FDA. I’m still experimenting with mine and have no idea what it can do, if anything. If something interesting happens either with the device or through my use of it, I’ll update this page. If you make one and anything noteworthy happens, please leave a comment in the comments section.
Thank you and good luck.
I’ve been using my BOB for about a week now. I keep it on my computer chair so I get a few hours of treatment every day.
The most noticeable effect it seems to be having is that I am sleeping better. Normally in the summer my sleep is of shorter duration and I have few dreams. I’m sleeping longer than expected and am having a normal amount of remembered dreams. That makes me happy.
One night I tried sleeping with it under my mattress pad and couldn’t sleep a wink until I shut it off. I stayed up until 5am that night trying to get some sleep but I was too energized. It wasn’t like a caffeine buzz. I was just very wide awake. I also get that way sometimes if I keep the Spooky2 remote going for too long.
About a week ago, the LED panel stopped lighting up. I can still see the digits counting down if I look closely but they don’t shine like they used to. I can still hear it ticking when the switch is activated so I know it’s still functioning.
When (not if) I make my second device, I will probably order from a different source and pay a couple more bucks even though it probably won’t make any difference. I have a feeling all the vendors are selling the exact same timer relay made at the same factory. Maybe the cheaper ones are the ones that QC didn’t like so much but I don’t know. I’m just operating on the assumption you get what you pay for. And in this case, it may not be a proper assumption. I’ve seen this timer relay listed for over $90 and I can’t believe it’s any different than the $11 version I got from Amazon. They used the exact same picture so how different could it be?
I still use my BOB almost every day when I’m at my computer and I continue to sleep better than I did before I started using it.